ABOVE: "Havana is so amazing! I feel so connected to my people. This is truly one of the most beautiful cities on Earth! It's so vibrant and friendly and joyful and there's salsa music pouring out of these beautiful historic facades and... Wait a second. Where did I put my passport? Oh God, where is my passport? Is it back at the hotel? What if I lost it? What if the soldiers won't let me go back to the U.S. and I have to stay in this leprous shit-hole? AAAGGGGHHHHH where is the passport oh God please help me...!"
True Story: I have the above nightmare once every month, around the 10th.
Anthony Bourdain's "No Reservations" was one of the brighter spots in my days of editing cable shows, so I just had to watch the recent Cuba episode. I loved it and thought he did great, he's far more informed than I ever expected him to be (I sure avoid learning about life in Jersey, why should he bother learning about life in Cuba?) Anthony's aware of the things that are great about the island (we Cubans get a lot of chilling time because there are no jobs worth talking about; pretty beaches; affordable jineteras) and the things that are bullshit (everything else).
He had no need to apologize to his "friends" in the Miami community as he diplomatically does at the beginning of the show (When Bourdain says that, you totally believe he has a bunch of Cuban exile friends he routinely discusses Cuban news with; he's cool like that). "No Reservations" is a food-centered travelling show: In the Swedish episode I didn’t expect him to discuss the Swedish monarchy, when he ate in Vietnam I didn’t expect a retrospective on the Vietcong, and when he eats in Washington I don’t want or need him to deliver trenchant commentary on political corruption. Similarly, he's more than forgiven for not spending his Cuban time protesting censorship or corruption or helping dissidents flee from prisons. He eats food and talks about it.
He does that very well.
He was almost scholarly on the history of "paladares." Paladares, BTW, is basically people having restaurants in their houses, which, if you understand how Cuba works, was a highly treasonous anti-revolutionary activity symptomatic of Yankee values like "resourcefulness", "individualism" and "food." That is, until the Communist government realized it could charge extortionate rates, (something like 12% of the profits) from the owners of Paladares if said owners wanted to avoid prison. Then paladares became the center of Cuban life. And they're stocked through the black market, but when you give the government their part of the take, they look the other way. If you're wondering how come this reminds you more of the Mafia than of Marx... welcome to Cuba, baby.
ABOVE: You know how I fall unhealthily in love with a girl in every TV show? Me. Age 13. Chick on the left. Lidia Brondi's her name. Just saying.
BONUS DIGRESSION YOU DON'T CARE ABOUT AND COULD ONLY HAPPEN IN HALLUCINA: Have we talked about
how much Brazilian novelas rock? "Paladar" means Palate, Taste. Cubans started naming restaurants "Paladares" after the uber-popular Brazilian soap opera "Vale Tudo" (That means "Anything Goes" but it also can mean "Everything is Worthwhile." That's pretty deep for a soap opera title. Better than "Hospital of Eternal Passions.")
In "Vale Tudo," the resourceful, individualistic heroine with a capitalist need for food goes from selling sandwiches at the beach to opening a restaurant business called "Paladar." Her struggle struck a chord in Cuba's hungriest days ever: El Periodo Especial. Everyone who knew someone who could get horse meat into the city dreamed of starting a Paladar business. What was the appeal? Communism never found room for stories about selfish individuals making their own dreams come true- never mind getting paid for those dreams. But those stories can be insidiously inspiring.
I wonder if the makers of "Vale Tudo" even realize that in some other country their show eliminated the need for the word "restaurant." I can't explain to you how pervasively popular "Vale Tudo" was when I was a kid, or how much Regina Duarte ruled, or what a bitch Gloria Pires was as her ungrateful daughter, or why I thought Lidia Brondi's haircut was a good reason for a boner. Ah, "Vale Tudo"! When there was a plotline about how young Thiago wanted to be abstinent, our priest dedicated a whole Sunday sermon to Thiago's noble chaste struggle- then Thiago got laid on the Monday episode and we were all like: "Ha!" And when evil Donha Odete got shot, you could get top dollar in Havana for a Brazilian VHS bootleg of the episode that revealed who had done it. (Oh, you're never gonna watch it, so I can spoil it. Almost everyone had a good motive to kill Odete. So naturally the person who did it was the only one who didn't have a motive at all.)

ABOVE: Donha Odette! Who cares who shot J.R?!?
In 1993 Cuba, 9 o'clock meant that every single TV set on the nation was tuned to "Vale Tudo." You could literally walk down the middle of any Havana street at night and not miss the plot, because the dialogue was coming out of every open window. If I tell that to American friends, they uniformly say it sounds beautiful and mystical and blah blah blah Che Guevara and everybody come together and blah blah blah. But you gotta realize all it means is we that we didn't have pesky entertainment "choices." That one exported soap opera was pretty much the best thing that happened in Cuba all that year.
That's pretty much Cubita. Everything sounds beautiful and mystical until you figure out it's way worse than you've realized.
This is why I have to take Anthony to task. Can't help myself.
On the plus side, he was very clear in explaining there's heavy censorship, general starvation, and that all the Communist hotels and restaurants and historical spots he's visiting are forbidden to Cuban Communists, unless they have Capitalist dollars and know someone they can bribe.
On the minus side, he explained the above without HAVING HIS HEAD BLOW UP.
Let me reverse the situation so you can truly grasp the absolute, direct-to-the-Twilight-Zone vortex that is Cuba:
Imagine if you can that it's 1957, and you, an American citizen, are in your native New York, and you go to visit the Statue of Liberty, and a soldier stops you and says:
"Sir, I'm sorry, you can't go in there. The Statue of Liberty is only open to visiting Russian spies. No American may go in."
And you say: "Wow, that's crazy! But I don't want no trouble, I'll accept this without question. Is there a McDonald's around here? I'll just go there instead."
And the soldier says: "Oh, there's lots of them, but it's the same thing. McDonald's only serves you if you can prove you're a Russian spy."
And you say: "But I'm reaaaaaaally hungry. Listen, I got 1000 bucks. I'll totally pay you 1000 bucks to go in there for me and get me a Big Mac meal."
And the soldier says: "I could get sent to prison if I do that. 1000 dollars just ain't worth it... ALTHOUGH... You wouldn't happen to have 5 rubles, do you? If you can get me 5 rubles, I'll get you a Big Mac AND a blow job."
And you say: "Eeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeh, never mind. Screw you and screw the Russkies."
And the soldier says: "Yes! God bless America! McCarthy forever! Death to the Russian spies!"
And then five Russian spies pass by and the policeman kisses their feet and lets them right into the Statue of Liberty.
THIS EXACT SAME THING HAPPENS IN CUBA EVERY SINGLE DAY, AND IT HAS FOR THE LAST 20 YEARS! AND NO ONE THINKS IT'S WEIRD!

ABOVE: Look at this picture of Bourdain walking past a mural of Che, Camilo, and some other famous Cuban (I think it's Pitbull.) Are you looking at some surface of proud counter-cultural Communist icons? Are you seeing the Revolution in action? Or can you see beyond into the reality of a faded, unloved, decades-old remnant that no Cuban respects or cares about and only a tourist would choose for posing?
But Anthony romanticizes the surfaces, the crumbling buildings that have so much "character" (it just sucks to LIVE in them forever, you know, sacrificing your safety to a bullshit vampiric regime that hi-jacked your country and bled it of life.) Above all, like most Americans in Cuba, Anthony romanticizes the fucking shark cars. The ancient cars ARE beautiful and mystical, if you can't see past them to the reality. We are clinging to the past because the future never showed up. It’s not that we love ’59 Buicks. That's the kind of stuff AMERICANS like. Cubans would kill for a freaking '99 Myata. We're just not that lucky.
Bourdain is a very smart man, so I want to forgive him the following inferences... but they're too idiotic: "Cubans keep their '59 Buicks. You see them all about. Therefore, Cubans must know how beautiful these cars are, and can probably make a lot of money selling them to collectors."
No, Anthony, they can't. They can't sell them to anyone. If they could, they would. They wouldn't do it now in 2011. They would have done it back in '79, or '89. Long, long ago. Think about it: who could they sell it to? You think they can put an ad on Craigslist and hope Jay Leno sees it and pays them a million bucks for a '49 Coupe de Ville? Are they going to mail the car to him? They're stuck with their paralyzed rusting cars. What Anthony sooort of meant is:
"Cubans can probably make a lot of money selling them to collectors...
when Fidel dies and Communism inevitably crumbles and the American money starts to pour in."
But he didn't dare say it.
Elsewhere, he parrots the bullshit trinity of Cuban propaganda (healthcare, education, sports).
Let me tell you a little story: when I have my own repressive regime, (Cuba2 sounds good) I will just make it part of our creed that orgasms are 300% stronger in my country. I will hire Michael Moore to shoot an extra-loud porn in my own personal suite, (reassuring him, of course, that my suite looks exactly like the average Cuban2's suite.) I will have Cuban2's citizens repeat this "fact" every morning, before being allowed breakfast. Within a generation it will considered gospel. Everyone will be sure their orgasms are 300% stronger than those of people in less fortunate countries- (how could they compare anyway?)- and feel great pride in this fact. They'll even say it to each other: "Hans is a repressive dictator, but at least we have these super-orgasms. That makes things more bearable!" It won't stop there. With time schools all over the world would all feature that rad, transgressive professor telling them that no matter what they've been brainwashed to think about Cuba2 by the media, it's a really cool place where orgasms are 300% stronger. Every student will titter, but a few will even travel to Cuba2 to get the super orgasms. They'll have lots of fun in Cuba2, with my armies of "joyful, vibrant, salsa-music-loving" prostitutes.
A quarter of the students will have sex for the first time there, and assume they've gotten a super-orgasm. A quarter of the students will have awesome vacation sex and will be convinced the trip worked, because THEY HAVE NO WAY OF MEASURING ORGASMS. Another quarter will NOT get laid in my island of pleasure, despite pathetic efforts, but will go back to their countries with wild fabrications: "300%? No way, bro! I was with these two chicks, and it felt like at LEAST 450% better! Cuba2 is the Super-Orgasmer's paradise!"
Then... there will be a certain final quarter of "skeptics". They'll have doubts. "Geez, that kind of felt like a normal orgasm, no? It was fine, but certainly nothing that I hadn't experienced before. And why would orgasms be related to territory? This doesn't hold water."
That's ok. Skeptics are easy to handle. I'll take them aside before they depart Cuba2, look them in the eye. "Did you enjoy your stay here? What a question, of course you did. I'm only asking because there was a rumor going around that... Well, it is said that the 300% orgasms do not apply to homosexuals, syphilitics, "skeptics", those who hate progress, racists, intellectuals, the congenitally insane, murderers, and men with small genitals. But why am I wasting your time with that nonsense! None of those things apply to you, of course! Have a safe trip and tell everyone about your experience in Cuba2!"
Anyone who attempts to investigate the 300% orgams through any actual scientific observations will be immediately imprisoned for unpatriotic activities.
I'm going to be the best dictator yet!
---
Let me go over this again. *sigh*
FREE HEALTHCARE! (Yes, those model-hospitals for visiting Yankee spies are awesome, it's just the average Cuban isn't allowed in there. Shouldn't that fact by itself suggest that healthcare in Cuba is not that great at all? If you're not allowed into one great "free" hospital, it doesn't usually mean that you are sent into ANOTHER equally good hospital. It means you're sent to a hospital that is not as good. The medicine isn't even free either. It's just cheap, hypothetically. Meaning aspirin would be inexpensive, if regular hospitals had it, but most of the time they don't. What is true about healthcare in Cuba is that it is somewhat better than you would have guessed from the typical hospital's state of squalor. Why would you simply believe a line like GREAT HEALTHCARE when it comes from a government that doesn't allow any scrutiny? Open your eyes. Look at a crowd of Cubans. Do the words "best healthcare in the world" REALLY suggest themselves to you? Later I'm going to show you a random picture of my peeps- not some select scary group of old Cubans, just regular young Cubans- and I want you to look past all those surfaces that always trick you: past our smiles, past our friendliness. What do you REALLY see? Do you see people with amazingly good health? Or do you see really skinny people? Are you so helplessly American that you think being famished is a sign of good health?)
Free education! (No, let's call this what it is: universal indoctrination. That indoctrination IS free. Somewhat. I can't tell you how great it is to read "Das Kapital" and the complete works of V. I. Lenin and never have to worry about tuition. This free education myth is not true, not exactly. You know that expression I hate, "freedom isn't free"? Well... "Free isn't freedom" works too. Suppose I take you under my wing as a child, and, at absolutely no fee to you, teach you how to work my fields, how to make my food, how to march in my army, and how to read books about my greatness and the importance of obeying me... Would you call that 'free'? Or would you say that I have tricked you into slavery? That's pretty much Cuban education. You may correctly reply: "But that is how education EVERYWHERE works. You're trained to be a slave to society." And I would say: "True. But in Cuba much more so. Trust me, I'm talking from experience." I'm not going to be the one to say that most Cubans are uneducated morons. But how about this..? Most people in most countries of the world are uneducated morons. Doesn't that ring a little closer to the truth than: "Cuba is a nation of super-scholars"?)
Great at baseball! (Cuba IS great at baseball, 'cause there's nothing else to do there but play baseball from the womb on, and watch that one soap opera at 9. The baseball players all can't wait to escape Cuba so they can be great at baseball far away from Cuba. I guess they don't like great healthcare that much?)
ABOVE: Extra healthy genius baseball players gathering to discuss the Ergodic Ramsey Theory of Additive Combinatorics, (which is a real thing.) I don't even understand half of those words, but I'm sure other Cubans do, what with their GREAT EDUCATION.
Oh, mercy, I have ranted too much again. This Cuba stuff always hits too close to the literal home, you know? You're a cool guy, Anthony Bourdain. And your show is about food, after all.
So let me just tell you how you fucked up with the food.
That weird-ass sea-food-with-noodles plate you ate at the fancy only-for-foreigners restaurant? How dare you. You went to Cuba to eat fusion cuisine no regular Cuban has ever heard of? Didn't you notice how your government-sponsored guide was nearly in tears, rocking back and forth and saying: "This is the most beautiful food I have ever seen. I don't know what it is, but it is so beautiful! Oh God, let me die while eating this thing, that's all I ask."
And that food you ate at the Paladar? That WAS Cuban food. Embarrassingly boring Cuban food. I can't believe you were all like: "Black beans! Rice! Plantains! Fascinating!" I'm going to assume you just didn't want to hurt feelings, because you know way better than that. If you went to the Midwest to do a show and someone offered you a mediocre meatloaf, you would punch them, wouldn't you? You should have punched the lady who gave you stale black beans and white rice at the Paladar. Come by my house any time, I guarantee my dog pukes out better Cuban food, and I don't even have a dog.